Pensacola News Journal

For:  Saturday, Jan. 4, 2003

By:   Daniel E. Mullins

        Extension Horticulture Agent

        Santa Rosa County

Early Spring Blooming Plants’ Flowers Already Formed

Much of next years’ early spring color in the landscape has already been determined.  The truly early blooming shrubs and trees form their flower buds during the previous late summer and fall.  They are then borne through the winter and are further conditioned by our winter temperatures.  Spring flowering is triggered by either longer days, warmer temperatures or both, depending upon the plant species.

            Some of the early flowering plants include azaleas, spireas, wisteria, banana shrub, Indian hawthorn, Oriental magnolias, dogwood, fringe tree and redbud.  Obviously the more healthy that these shrubs and trees are during the previous season, the more profuse flowering will be the following spring. 

            This early flowering group of trees and shrubs should be maintained somewhat differently.  For maximum flowers, close attention must be paid when pruning and watering.

            The pruning time is extremely important.  Any necessary pruning should be done soon after the flowering season is over.  If pruning is done before flowering then the buds, which are generally on terminals, would be removed before they can open. 

            Excessively late pruning can be just as detrimental to flowering as pruning too early.  Plants must have enough of the growing season left after pruning to form new shoots and set flower buds before fall.  In general if pruning of the early spring flowering shrubs and trees is needed, it should be finished by early June in our area.

            Avoid allowing the soil around these plants to become too dry.  Most of them are relatively shallow rooted and can suffer from Gulf Coast droughts that are so common during the fall. 

            Since flowering is reproductive stage of these and other higher plants, it is susceptible to stress.  Plants that are stressed due to low soil moisture or from other causes will actually abort or shed their flower buds in order to survive. In the absence of sufficient rainfall, one or two thorough irrigations per week will suffice if the plants are well established and properly mulched.

Question of the Week:  I have 6 large hibiscus plants growing in containers.  What is the best way to get them through the winter without serious damage?

Answer:  Cold sensitive plants like hibiscus in pots are more susceptible to freeze damage than the same plants being grown in the ground.  Moving them to a greenhouse would be ideal, but they can be protected by moving them inside of a Florida room or even a garage during extremely cold periods.

            These are full sun loving plants and some of the leaves might turn yellow and fall if they are left indoors for long periods.  This should not be a major concern as they can be safely moved outdoors by mid to late March.  If you don’t mind moving them several times during the winter, they can be brought outdoors during mild periods and then back inside when freezing temperatures are predicted.

            Don’t forget to keep the root ball moist while they are inside.  A dried out root system can result in as much damage during the winter as at any other time.