Pensacola News Journal

For: Saturday, Oct. 26, 2002

By: Daniel E. Mullins

Extension Horticulture Agent

Santa Rosa County

Enjoy Gardening and Don’t “Go To Seed”

Saying that a person has “gone to seed” is a way of describing someone who dwells on a particular subject, unnecessarily analyzing it in such depth and fretting that all practicality is lost. This is an old southern colloquialism and has been used to cover many situations, from the justifiable to the trivial.

As gardeners we sometime “go to seed” to the point that our enjoyment of this great pastime is limited. We don’t do this intentionally, it’s just that it is easy to become so involved that we want perfect plants, and “perfect” is not always practical. Though any perceived plant problem deserves attention and sometimes corrective measures, many just aren’t worth worrying about.

Following are typical concerns that sometimes cause the “going to seed” phenomenon among gardeners:

■ Spots on leaves during late summer and fall often cause concern. The leaves of maple, sycamore, hickory and many other deciduous trees exhibit these signs each year. This is normally nothing to be concerned about. Many of the spots were there for most of the growing season, but were masked by chlorophyll in the leaves. As fall approaches, the level of chlorophyll in the leaves decreases and the spots seem to suddenly appear.

■ Why can’t I grow lilacs and peonies? Most of the northern Gulf Coast is in the USDA Hardiness Zone 8b. These species are not adapted to our relatively short, mild winters and long, hot and humid summers. Instead of wasting time and money, substitute with some of our colorful southern annuals and perennials such as crapemyrtle, camellias, azaleas, daylilies, Louisiana iris and amaryllis.

■ Weeds are taking over my lawn, what can I do? What we call weeds are nature’s way of filling a void. A serious weed problem is therefore an indication of a weak, thinning lawn that has lost some of its ability to compete. First, determine why the lawn is not competing well and make corrections. Sometimes it is necessary to use a recommended lawn herbicide for help in controlling unwanted weeds, while hand pulling is all that is necessary in other cases.

■ I have a plant in my landscape that requires almost constant care in order to prevent severe insect damage. Is there something that I can spray on it to avoid future problems? Most non restricted insecticides that are currently available are relatively short lived, so with few exceptions, preventative sprays are not recommended. It is better to inspect plants frequently and use an insecticide for control only as necessary. A plant that requires excessive maintenance, including an excessive amount of pesticide applications should be removed and replaced with another species that is better adapted to that site.

■ I use mulch in my shrub and flower beds, but find that it attracts roaches, millipedes and other critters. What can I do to get rid of them? Such creatures are a part of our Gulf Coast environment and aid in the natural biological process. Ignore them unless the mulched beds are adjacent to the house and the insects become a nuisance indoors. A barrier treatment of a labeled insecticide can be used if necessary, to prevent them from entering the house.

Question of the Week: My lawn has developed yellow spots. What can be causing this and what can I do?

Answer: There are two common causes for yellow areas in lawns. Often the problem is brought on by a heavy application of fertilizer which can chemically bind iron in the soil. A supplemental application of iron in a liquid or dry form can help to temporarily correct this condition.

Sometimes yellowing is an early sign of disease. If these areas enlarge or if leaf blades begin to die, get a diagnosis and follow recommended control practices.