Pensacola News Journal
For:
Saturday, June 2, 2001
By: Daniel E.
Mullins
Extension Horticultural Agent
Santa
Rosa County
Better
check to see if lacebugs are damaging your azalea foliage. Populations of this pest are higher than
normal for this time of year and some shrubs are showing the effects of heavy
feeding.
The
first sign of damage on azalea leaves is a light stippling caused by many small
white, brown or yellow specks. Each
speck on the upper leaf surface coincides with damage on the underside of the
leaf where lacebugs pierce cells and suck sap.
Light
infestations by this pest go largely unnoticed each summer by azalea
growers. However, this year damage is
so severe that feeding sites on individual leaves have coalesced causing all
leaves to take on a whitish or gray cast.
Unless controlled, such heavy feeding by lacebugs can severely stress,
and even stunt azaleas.
Examine
plants weekly during the spring, summer and fall. Look at the undersides of a few leaves on each plant and observe
for lacebugs. The use of a 10 and 15
power hand lens aids in detection and identification.
Lacebugs
are small insects, _ to ¼ inch in length, broad, flattened and rectangular in
shape. The wings of adults are
partially transparent or lace-like in appearance. Immature lacebugs are blackish in color, wingless and have many
small spines projecting from their body.
Also,
look for small, dark shiny spots on the undersides of leaves. These are eggs that are covered with a
varnish-like substance and are very noticeable when leaves become very
infested.
Control
Most
plants in the urban landscape are over-sprayed, resulting in unnecessary
environmental contamination which often upsets the natural predator/parasite –
pest balance. Don’t apply a control
measure until you have positively identified lacebugs and the beginning of
damage symptoms.
Non-insecticidal
control of lacebugs is possible. Some
homeowners are able to remove them and keep populations below damaging levels
by spraying their plants with a forceful stream of water. Use a garden hose with an adjustable nozzle
and spray the undersides of leaves and stems when the lacebugs appear.
Soaps
are available that are formulated for controlling lacebugs and other soft
bodied insects. If one of the
commercial soaps is unavailable, 4
tablespoons of liquid dishwashing soap per gallon of water may be applied as a
foliar spray. Repeat in one week and
later as required.
Suggested
insecticides for lacebug control include Acephate (Orthene), Diazinon, Sevin,
Malathion and Di-Syston granules.
Follow label directions carefully.
Make certain that plants have been well irrigated one to two days prior
to treatment and avoid applying sprays during hotter, brighter times of the
day.
Note: Though lacebug injury is
currently most severe on azaleas, they also infest other ornamental plant
species including pyracantha, hawthorn, lantana and sycamore.
Question of the Week: Is it too late to establish tomato plants in the
garden?
Answer: Early June is not a good time to transplant tomatoes
to the garden. It is too late for a
spring crop and too early for a fall planting . If you would like to try a fall crop, seed tomatoes and grow them
in small containers for late July transplanting.