For:
By: Daniel E. Mullins
Extension Horticulture Agent
No Pruning at Transplanting
The recent article about transplanting trees resulted in many responses from readers. Several have contacted me with follow-up questions, mostly related to pruning at the time that trees are planted.
Following the format of the original gardening article, let’s start with the old recommendation regarding pruning. For years it was suggested that plants be pruned to remove one-third of the top at transplanting. This was believed to help compensate for any root loss or damage that might have occurred.
Such a recommendation would seem to make sense because some root loss or damage often occurs and fewer roots couldn’t be expected to furnish water and minerals to an entire plant top. Though common sense can be applied to many situations, it turns out that there were other factors not being considered at the time.
Now for the new recommendation – do not prune the top part of the plant at transplanting. There are two reasons that this is not a good idea. First, some auxins, or plant growth regulators that help with root development are formed on terminals. So, if branch tips are removed this would result in the removal of plant growth hormones that are involved in root development.
A second and equally important reason to avoid pruning at planting has to do with stored food. Some of the energy for root growth is stored in the tree’s branches. Therefore, the removal of limbs or branches takes energy away that could have been used in helping to develop the new root system.
Any broken or severely damaged branches can be removed, but leave all other top growth at the time of transplanting. Allow a growing season for root development and then corrective pruning can then be done with less negative impact tree on tree establishment.
Scale Alert: This is one of the worst years that I have seen for scale infestation on ornamental shrubs and trees. Homeowners are advised to check plants to see if they are suffering and treat, if necessary.
There are many different scale
insect species and most are somewhat specific as to the kind of plants that
they infest. Magnolia scale is common on
magnolias and sagos. Tea scale is
infesting camellias and burford hollies and
Most scale insects are now in a mature, over-wintering stage and are not easily controlled with most insecticides. The horticultural oils, properly applied will help to control most scale problems. If one of these specialty oils is used, follow label directions carefully.
Additional information about scale insects can be found at: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/MG/MG00500.pdf. This document is helpful in identifying scale species and provides more information about the control of these pests.
Question of the Week: I am using container grown poinsettias for decoration outdoors and would like to know how much cold protection that they will need. Are there any precautions that I should take?
Answer:
The poinsettia is a tropical plant and can therefore be severely
damaged by frosts or freezes. They prefer
temperatures between 60 and 75 degrees F., but can tolerate slightly warmer or
cooler weather. When temperatures are
predicted to drop below 40 degrees F., it would be wise to bring them indoors
temporarily. See the following web site
for more information: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/BODY_MG352.