For:
Saturday, Dec. 15, 2001
By: Daniel E. Mullins
Extension Horticulture
Agent
Santa Rosa County
The pecan is well adapted to our
area, making a beautiful large shade tree.
It also produces nuts for home use if the recommended varieties are
planted.
Questions concerning the
establishment of pecan trees in the landscape are frequent, especially at this
time of year. Following are the most
common ones.
Q. What
varieties of pecan do you recommend?
A. Only those that show some resistance to disease
problems are recommended for planting by homeowners. Select grafted trees of Desirable, Curtis, Elliott, Moreland and
Stuart.
Q. When is
the best time to plant?
A. Obtain
and plant trees during the winter (December through February).
Q. What
size trees should I purchase?
A. Three
to 6 feet tall. Larger trees are more
difficult to transplant.
Q. How far
apart should trees be spaced?
A. The
distance between trees should be approximately 60 feet because mature trees are
quite large. Commercial producers
sometimes use a closer spacing.
Q. What is
the planting procedure?
A. One of
the keys to survival of a pecan tree is not allowing the root system to dry out
before, during or after transplanting.
Other important steps:
n The planting
hole should be 18 to 24 inches wide and only as deep as the
root system.
n Spread
the roots out so that they are not matted together, thus allowing for normal
growth and development.
n The planting
depth is critical. Place at such a
depth that the uppermost root is at, or near the soil surface. Excessively deep planting of pecan trees can
result in death.
n Gradually
add soil and continue to carefully spread out roots as the filling procedure
continues, until the hole is filled.
Water the soil to remove air pockets and firm the soil around the root
system.
n Construct
a water ring around the base of the tree that is approximately 3 feet across
and 4 inches high. Fill the ring with
water after transplanting has been completed.
Regular watering will be required for a period of 6 months, or until the
young tree is well established.
Q. Should
I put peat moss or manure in the planting hole?
A. No,
plant in your native soil.
Q. Should
I apply fertilizer when the trees are planted?
A. No,
wait until May of the first year after planting.
Q. Should
I mulch around the trees?
A. A 2 to
3 inch deep layer of coarse mulch would be beneficial. In addition to conserving moisture, mulches
help to reduce grass and weed competition.
Note:
The branches of pecan are sometimes
brittle, resulting in occasional falling branches. Locate trees so that, at maturity, limbs do not extend over the
roof or over parking areas.
Question of the Week: A freeze is expected soon, so should I cut back my
Hibiscus plants now?
Answer: No, don’t prune Hibiscus plants severely during the
fall or early winter. Though most
species and cultivars usually freeze back to some degree, don’t make the
assumption that they will be killed to the ground every year. Pruning off most of the tops unnecessarily
removes food reserves that plants store for use the following growing
season.
You might wish to do light
pruning to shape them but wait until late February or just before spring growth
before any major pruning is done. By
that time you will be able to determine how much branch tissue has been cold
damaged and remove those parts.