Saving the Holiday Poinsettia

By now the holiday poinsettia is starved for light and has cabin fever, but take heart! That sickly looking plant with the leafless stems can be beautiful again given the right conditions.

Poinsettias are tropical plants, originally found growing in the wilds of southern Mexico. Joel Robert Poinsett, the first U.S. ambassador to Mexico obtained and introduced the first plants in 1825. Since that time, plant breeding has provided long lasting cultivars, in a variety of colors.

Any potted poinsettia whose stems have not completely shriveled can be rejuvenated. It can be grown as a potted patio plant or transplanted to the landscape during the warm season.

Growing in a Pot

First, remove all dead leaves and prune away dead stems. Cut the green stems back to a 4 inch height. Remove the plant from its old pot and replant in a pot that is 4 to 6 inches larger in diameter than the original pot.

Use a light weight commercial potting medium such as a “peat-lite” mix. Place the plant base in the potting mixture no deeper than the top of the root ball.

Fertilization can be accomplished by using a slow release complete fertilizer, or by using soluble fertilizer. In either case, follow the label directions carefully. It is easy to overdo when fertilizing container grown plants.

Water thoroughly to settle the potting mix and place the newly potted plant outdoors after the danger of frost has passed. Expose the poinsettia to full sunlight all day if possible. Water thoroughly each time that the surface of the potting mix first begins to appear dry.

Planting in the Ground

Choose a protected planting site that receives full sunlight and is protected on the north side by a house, outbuilding or fence. Prepare the soil by adding generous amounts of peat, compost or manure to an area that is approximately 6 feet in diameter. Mix the soil amendment with the upper 6 inches of soil by tilling or spading.

Prune the plant and clean it up as described above, and plant it in the center of the amended area. Water well to settle the soil, and apply a 3 inch deep layer of coarse mulch on the soil surface.

Irrigate daily for a week and then begin to reduce the watering frequency as the plant becomes established. Once well established, two heavy irrigations per week should be sufficient.

Soluble or liquid fertilizer can be use approximately every 2 weeks, unless a slow release product was applied soon after planting. Avoid excessive applications and keep fertilizer away from the base of the stem.

Other Poinsettia Specifics

n Poinsettias do best in soils that are well drained and high in organic matter.

n Best growth and development can be expected when slow release fertilizers are used. Be careful with fast acting products.

n During the vegetative growth stage, pinch each stem. This means remove 1 inch of terminal growth periodically to encourage multiple branching. Cease pinching by mid-August so that the plants can set flowers.

n These are short day plants, initiating flowers and colorful bracts when the day length is 12 hours or less, beginning in late September in our area.

n Allow no artificial light to strike plants during flower initiation. Even brief periods of light at night, such as from car or security lights can prevent or reduce flowering.

n About 10 weeks after flower initiation, they begin to produce colorful bracts.

n Poinsettias are very sensitive to low temperatures, and even one brief cold snap during the fall can cause failure that year. During some years our first frost comes late and we appear to be poinsettia growing experts. Plan for overnight protection during November and December if plants are in the ground. Potted plants can simply be brought indoors and enjoyed when it freezes.