Pensacola News Journal
For:
Saturday, July 30, 2001
By: Daniel
E. Mullins
Extension Horticultural Agent
Santa
Rosa County
What can I plant over a
septic system leach field? This is a
common question from gardeners, and one that deserves a lot of attention. A publication from the Virginia Extension
system provides the most entertaining answer:
“Something fragrant.”
Seriously,
great care should be exercised when planting near a septic system. The challenge of leach field gardening is to
find plants that will meet your landscaping needs without clogging the drain
pipes. Following are some typical
questions that we receive on this subject.
17.Why plant
anything?
1. There are many reasons. Plants can help the septic drain system to
function best by removing moisture and nutrients from the soil. Plant cover helps to reduce soil erosion. At a minimum, the leach field should be planted
with a cover of grass. Also, many
homeowners have limited space and this area might be the only place that
flowers and other ornamental plants can be grown.
17.What plants
are safest to use over or near a drain field?
1. Shallow rooted herbaceous annuals and
perennials, turfgrass and ground covers are unlikely to damage the lines. For obvious reasons, avoid deep tilling or
digging when preparing the soil. Always
wear protective gloves when working with the soil over a drain field.
17.How about
planting trees and shrubs in or near the drain field?
1.
Trees and
shrubs are more risky choices than the herbaceous plants. The woody roots of these plants are more
likely to clog and damage the lines.
The water loving trees such as willows, poplars, birches and maples are
notorious for seeking out and filling perforated drain pipes with roots.
Some of the less
aggressive and smaller growing woody species
may be suitable for
planting near a drain field. Some
possibilities include
crabapples, dogwoods,
pines and sourwood.
Q. So, how far away must a tree be located so
that it can’t possibly clog drain
lines?
A. An exact distance for each tree species is
not known. Given the fact that
the average root spread
of oaks and some other species is approximately
3 times the canopy
spread, stay as far away from drain lines as is
feasible.
_Select less aggressive
species.
_Plant large growing trees
as far as possible from the drain field.
_Prepare the soil before
planting trees by loosening the soil and breaking through subsurface compacted
areas. Growing roots follow the path of
least resistance, penetrating less compacted cracks or paths as they find
them. If the first soft path that they
encounter happens to be a drain field, that is where they will proliferate.
_Consider the use of a
commercial root barrier. Although
somewhat expensive, this technique may be worth trying. One method involves the use of a geotextile
that has been impregnated with a long-lasting herbicide. A sheet of this material is placed
vertically in a trench from the soil surface to a depth of 2 to 3 feet. It has been used successfully to restrict
root growth in street tree plantings.
The manufacturer’s instructions must be followed closely when installing
root barriers.
Question of the Week: I have found what looks like cocoons hanging from the
branches of my junipers. What is
this? Will they damage my plants.
Answer: These are bagworms.
They are currently infesting many cedars, junipers, arborvitaes and
Leyland cypress trees. These are
unusual insects in that they spin a case or cocoon and carry it with them as
they feed.
Heavy
infestations, if unchecked, can result in complete defoliation and sometimes
death of these plants. Products
recommended for control include B.t (Dipel, Biotrol, Thuricide), Orthene or
Sevin insecticides. Follow label
instructions.