Pensacola News Journal

For Saturday, Feb. 19, 2005

By:  Daniel E. Mullins

       Extension Horticulture Agent

       Santa Rosa County

Storm Damaged Azaleas Will Recover Well With Help

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            Azaleas received a pounding during the hurricane.  Some of the damage that they received was obvious and was easily seen as broken tops and branches.  In addition to these acute signs and symptoms, other damage occurred that is more subtle and could have longer term effects.

            Violent bending and shaking during the storm loosened some azalea root systems from direct soil contact.  Although most are still standing, plants must tap into stored energy while attempting to re-establish their root systems.  Some experts also believe that branches of trees, and possibly shrubs, received enough damage to disturb their vascular systems.

            Several cultural practices can be employed to help azaleas recover.  First, don’t get in a hurry to prune.  There will surely be broken branches and twigs that will need removing, but wait until azaleas have finished flowering to do this work.

            Remove only dead branches, making the lowest cut an inch or two into green tissue.  Leave as much of the top portion as possible, retaining all healthy branches and leaves.  These will be needed to photosynthesize and provide food for newly developing roots and shoots.

            Fertilize in March or early April using an acid forming fertilizer such as an “Azalea-Camellia” product.  Avoid the use of standard garden fertilizers on azaleas.  Some of these contain nitrate nitrogen which is toxic to azaleas and other members of the heath family.  Follow label directions and avoid placing fertilizer near the root crowns.

            Add coarse mulch such as bark or pine needles to maintain a depth of two and one-half to three inches.  Don’t allow mulch to lie against the root crown or stem.  Pull mulch two to three inches away from each plant’s base.

            Since some plants have a limited root system extra water will be needed, but don’t drown them.  Established, mulched azaleas normally perform well with a thorough irrigation about once each week.  In the absence of sufficient rainfall, increasing the frequency twice weekly might be helpful.

            Later in the summer expect to see a few more dead branches.  This should not cause alarm as symptoms from damaging events on woody plants are often delayed.  A second, light pruning to remove affected branches might be required. 

            Though our azaleas are battered and bruised they should recover well.  I expect to see less flower production this spring, but following the upcoming growing season most will be back to normal.

Question of the Week:  What is the best time to apply “Weed and Feed” fertilizer to my lawn?

Answer:  Most of the so called “Weed and Feed” products contain a fertilizer and a pre-emergent herbicide to prevent weeds.  They don’t normally control weeds that are already up and growing.  If your goal is to control emerging summer weeds such as crabgrass and pursley, you have a relatively small window of opportunity.  A generally recommended time in North Florida is March 1. 

            The germination of warm season weeds is regulated mostly by soil temperature so the best time for a pre-emergent herbicide application can vary from year to year.  Dogwoods and azaleas are often better indicators.  When these two plants are in bloom, crabgrass and other summer weeds are germinating.  Use these plants as indicators only.  Some of the pre-emergent herbicides can damage them if applied within their root zones.