Pensacola News Journal

for: Sunday, Feb. 4, 2001

by: Daniel E. Mullins

Extension Horticultural Agent

Santa Rosa County

Too Early for Some Gardening Jobs

Resist the urge to “jump the gun” when considering landscape and gardening activities early in the year. Certain jobs done too early can cause more harm than good.

This subject is on my mind because of the kind of questions that I began receiving last Monday. After only two days of mild weather it appears, for example, that there are already temptations to begin fertilizing.

Keep in mind that winter isn’t over. It is usually mid-March or early April before spring arrives along the Gulf Coast. We are subject to several more frosts or freezes. Soils will remain relatively cold until night temperatures warm up and stabilize.

Timing is everything in gardening. Following are some routine gardening jobs and comments that might be helpful when scheduling these activities.

Fertilizing: February is not the month to stimulate the growth of warm season lawns and shrubs. Products that contain high levels of nitrogen, when applied too early, are either wasted or can cause green - up before the danger of freezing weather has passed.

Mid-March is plenty early for fertilizing the lawn and landscape plants. The ideal time, of course, is determined by the kind of spring that we are having. If warm weather is delayed, as it is some years, the postponement of fertilizing until April might be called for.

Pruning: There is also a strong urge to begin pruning now. With the exception of fruit trees and grape vines, it would be best to wait awhile. Hold off on pruning crape-myrtle, roses and other summer flowering plants until late winter, which is normally late February in our area. That is also an acceptable time to do any major pruning of broadleaf evergreens if it is needed.

Wait even longer before pruning azaleas, camellias, spiraeas and other spring flowering shrubs. They should be pruned soon after flowering is completed. If pruned too early, most of the flower buds will be removed before they have a chance to show their colors.

The subtropicals make up another group that will need some attention later. Many of these cold sensitive species such as hibiscus, lantana, Mexican heather and oleander have experienced varying degrees of damage this winter. Wait until new growth begins to appear before taking off the dead parts.

Weed Control: The proper timing of weed control measures can be confusing, especially if a herbicide is used. We have winter weeds, which germinate in the fall, and warm season weeds that germinate in the spring. I am now being inundated with samples of winter weeds, which actually germinated last September or October and are beginning to flower and produce seed. It’s too late to apply anything to prevent them. A properly chosen postemergent product can be helpful if applied at this time.

Warm season weeds won’t begin coming up until spring. Crabgrass, for example, only begins to germinate at about the same time that dogwoods and azaleas bloom. Obviously it is too early to apply a pre-emergent product. If applied now, it would likely be ineffective when it is most needed.

There are also three classes of weeds - broadleaf, grassy types and sedges, and few, if any weed killers, control them all. Herbicides should also be selected based upon the kind of weed that is present, or is expected based upon past growing seasons.

The key to weed control begins with accurate identification of your particular weed and providing the right measures at the right time of year.

Question of the Week: I found a fallen branch in my yard and the bark was covered with a layer of a fuzzy brown material. What is this and is it harmful?

Answer: This is brown felt fungus. It is one of many organisms that help to decompose dead wood.