For:
By: Daniel E. Mullins
Extension Horticulture
Tips for Moving Shrubs and Trees in the Landscape
It appears that some gardeners are planning to move shrubs and small trees to different locations in the yard early this year. A home landscape need not be permanent, and there are often good reasons for moving plants.
The shifting of shrubs and young trees to different locations is sometimes done as part of a redesigning process, but is more frequently done for the health of certain plants. I have recently talked with several people who are moving plants to different locations in order to better meet a particular species’ light requirement.
Most commonly, gardeners are realizing that azaleas and hydrangeas do poorly in bright, direct sun and are moving them to shady or semi-shaded locations. Crape myrtles have opposite light requirements. They love bright, direct sunlight and those growing in the shade can be moved to brighter locations.
Sometimes a camellia that is not flowering properly will bloom normally when moved. Plants are also shifted in order to better meet their soil moisture requirement or because the soil is too alkaline where they are presently growing. Moving plants that were established in the ground is stressful because of the amount of root loss that occurs. Done properly however, there is a good chance of success. Following are some tips.
■ In general, much root growth of
trees and shrubs occurs during the fall and winter along the
■ First, tie up the branches by gently lifting them and tying with twine or a small rope. This keeps the branches out of the way while digging and moving plants and helps to avoid broken limbs.
■ Except for broken branches, do not prune the top portion of the plant while transplanting. The entire plant will be needed to supply energy for new root growth. Corrective pruning can be done later, after the plant is completely established.
■ Dig a root ball as wide as is practical. Most shrubs and trees have surprisingly shallow root systems, but are far reaching. The minimum recommended root ball size for a shrub or tree with a one inch trunk diameter is sixteen inches. A two inch trunk would require a minimum root ball size of twenty four inches.
■ Dig the new planting hole about twice the width of the root ball, but slightly more shallow than the root ball depth.
■ Place the newly dug root ball on a piece of heavy fabric such as canvas and lift or slide the plant to the new location. Always handle the plant by the root ball, never by the top.
■ Place the plant in the new planting hole and adjust the depth so that approximately ten per cent of the top of the root ball is showing above ground.
■ Replace the around the root ball and water heavily to settle it. Do not pack the soil. Create a basin around the outside of the root ball using mulch.
■ Following the initial heavy irrigation at transplanting, water frequently but lightly until the plants are well established.
Note: Root pruning is
a procedure that is used during late summer or fall to better prepare large
woody ornamentals for winter transplanting.
This will be discussed in a later column.
Question of the Week: My hollyhocks performed poorly last summer, but I am expecting them to do better this year. What should I do to help them?
Answer: I suspect that you
are trying to grow the standard old fashioned hollyhock. They are biennials, and usually perform
poorly along the
There
are now annual hollyhocks that perform well.
If you wish to try them, locate some seeds or plants and start them as
early as possible this spring.